Discovering Carroll Gardens in the "Old Country"

My search for the familiar as I wondered through Sicily, a.k.a. the old country, was a satisfying success. Certainly there were contrasts, but I finally am able to understand many of the architectural oddities that stick out among the brownstones in Carroll Gardens. 

Read my first post about my trip to Italy with my family, "."

Sprinkled throughout the neighborhood are the re-faced (some would say defaced) brownstone and brick houses with uncharacteristic stone fronts. Driving through the ancient towns and villages of Sicily, it quickly becomes apparent that stone was the dominant building material.

This leads me to believe that our Carroll Gardens Sicilian immigrants wanted their new homes to have the feel of what they had left behind. I found it amusing that the opposite phenomenon has now begun to take place in Sicily where a number of newly renovated homes are being fitted with red brick face over the old stone facades.
 
A majority of homes in Sicily have small balconies on which laundry is hung and where you may enjoy a cool breeze. If you visit Union Street between Hicks and Columbia Street you will find buildings featuring the same characteristics. 
 
Another common sight in Sicily is the heavily gated front yard that also sports an awning, see this replicated on homes found on Sackett Street. This is a very common practice throughout Sicily due primarily to the absence of back yard space. 
 
Speaking of yards, everywhere you look in Sicily there is a fig tree. The Italian gardens of Carroll Gardens have the fig tree as their centerpiece. The fig tree does not naturally thrive in Brooklyn as the climate makes it hard to maintain. Despite the difficulties many original Carroll Gardens fig trees date back more then 60 and 70 years. Just as my fellow Italians, the trees have adapted to the climate. These trees no longer even need to be wrapped up to protect against the winter frost. I, however, still wear an overcoat and hat.
 
There are many little hints of Sicily in Carroll Gardens, let me tell you what I found in some of the hometowns of us transplants to Carroll Gardens. Using the local patron saints found in on Summit Street as my guide and inspiration, I planned to visit these four towns: Palermo (Santa Rosalia), Collesano (Our Lady of Miracles), Licata (Saint Angelo) and Pozzallo (Our Lady of the Rosary & St. John the Baptist).
 
Welcome to Palermo! Palermo is the capital city of Sicily and the center of faith and commerce for the island. Walking through the city reminded me of many people and families from Carroll Gardens. There was the late Rose Scotto, proprietress of , who was always so proud to proclaim her roots in the soil of Palermo.
 
There is much to be proud of in Palermo such as Europe’s second largest Opera House, it’s historic cathedral and, yes my mouth is still watering, its food. Walking through this historic city was like thumbing through a Carroll Gardens phone book with stores bearing the familiar names like Raccuglia and Mazzolla.

The feeling of being back home only grew when we happened upon Palermo’s oldest focacceria. Not much older then our own beloved on Union Street, this local icon has been serving Sicilian delicacies of fried chick peas and calf’s spleen for over 100 years. I have grown up eating the great food from Ferdinando's Focacceria but now I am able to also validate the authenticity of the Union Street experience. This is our little piece of Sicily on Union Street.
 
We also happened to be in Palermo for the 367th feast of the miracle of Santa Rosalia. Santa Rosalia is the patron saint of Palermo and her earthly remains are kept in the Cathedral in Palermo. Once a year they are brought out in procession through the streets of the city accompanied by confraternities, public officials and clergy.

Some in Brooklyn may be familiar with the feast of Santa Rosalia held on 18th Avenue. Fewer know that this Brooklyn feast was originally held on Henry Street from Summit Street to Kane Street. The statue of Santa Rosalia was brought through the streets and passed by the homes of all those from Palermo living in Carroll Gardens. Families throughout Carroll Gardens still have statues of Santa Rosalia in their homes and businesses. Rosalia remains a popular name in honor of the hometown patron.
 
Collesano is small town of 4,578 people set into the side of Mount Grotta del Signore overlooking the northern coast of Sicily. It is well maintained although dating back to the 12th century. It has an impressive municipal building and many ancient churches. This town is unlike Brooklyn and Carroll Gardens. Its medieval feel evoked by narrow streets, ancient fountains and towering location leaves you to wonder as to the shock it must have been for the people of Collesano when they first viewed Brooklyn. 
 
Yet, while the look of the town was strikingly different, the feeling was eerily familiar. The people of the town were warm and inviting. When I pulled over for direction to the main church of the town, everyone was very helpful and nice. Families sat outside their homes while the children played in the streets. The older men sat together outside the local café just taking in the view and goings on of the town, much like those that can still be found on Court Street today.
 
Check back next week for part two when we visit Licata and Pozzallo!