Saul Bolton Takes on the Brooklyn Flea

The only problem at the Brooklyn Bangers booth at The Brooklyn Flea last Saturday was the dwindling supply of old-timey Slim Jims, lemonade and rampwursts.

The seasonal sausage sold so fast at the Fort Greene market that foodie market-goers had to make do with snappy hot dogs, spicy raita slaw-topped merguez on pita and kielbasa with caramelized onions.

The new Banger business, started by chef Saul Bolton of long-standing Smith Street restaurant and Ben Daitz, who is the co-owner of in Prospect Heights, is getting a reputation for weekly specials and prices that peak at $8.

Ramps’ brief season inspired a riff on bratwurst made with the young, flavorful leeks, served with slaw studded with snap peas and ham. Sweet Italian sausage with a jardinière garnish was another hit this month. No one can predict what the future will bring, though well-done hot dogs with homemade pickled relish and bratwurst with sauerkraut will stay on the chalkboard menu.

Avi Luzon, who lives a few Fort Greene blocks away, was in dog heaven.

“It’s fantastic!” said the 26-year-old medical student, between bites of the beef and pork fat combo. “It tastes like brisket in a hot dog bun.”

“It’s really wonderful. I would come back and get this,” said Luzon, as he and friend, Eugene Shapiro, 27, visiting from San Diego, finished their hot dogs with Joey Chestnut-type speed.

“For $4, it’s a steal at the Flea,” said Luzon, brandishing a green veggie juice he bought at a nearby truck for a “ridiculous $7.”

All sausage stuffing takes place a stone’s throw away at the Vanderbilt. Bolton says the banger business is as much about good will as feeding hungry bargain-hunters.

Bolton, an affable father of two who lives in Prospect-Lefferts Gardens, who also plans to open a food-serving cinema called Nighthawk in Williamsburg, will need to be as dexterous as Julius Erving, the hoops legend better known as Dr. J., who inspired the Bangers’ logo.

The Fleas are attracting a fashion-conscious parade that seems more interested in people watching, preening and eating than shopping. The array of food, sprinkled among stalls of antique, old and new furniture, vintage clothes and costume jewelry, includes beautiful pies from PizzaMoto, AsiaDog’s vibrant renditions, the best of the Red Hook ball fields’ vendors, Kings County Jerky, lobster rolls, oysters, Scratchbread bread, jam, pies and fruity People’s Pops. 

Because customers are not spending a lot of money, Bolton finds they are relaxed and talkative.

“Being at the Flea is like camping,” he said.

The Brooklyn Flea's summer location is at 176 Lafayette Avenue in Fort Greene on Saturdays and at 27 North 6th St. in Williamsburg on Sundays. Both days are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., rain or shine, through the weekend of Nov. 19-20.